As you browse the racks of colorful silk sarees, your eyes inevitably land on the rich colors and intricate designs of Kanjivaram silks. With their reputation for unparalleled quality and exquisite craftsmanship, it is no wonder that these sarees are highly coveted. But with so many fake Kanjivarams flooding the market, how can you be sure you are investing in the real deal?
In this guide, you’ll learn the tell-tale signs of authentic Kanjivaram silk, from the weight and texture of the fabric to the hallmarks woven into the border. Equip yourself with the knowledge to identify the markers of genuine Kanjivarams, so you can purchase with confidence and build a collection of these timeless beauties. Master the art of spotting fake Kanjivarams and your saree selection will be second to none.
Table of Contents
The History and Significance of Kanjivaram Silk Sarees
The regal origins
The history of Kanjeevaram silk sarees stretches back to the 15th century. These handcrafted sarees originally emerged under the patronage of the Vijayanagara Empire, where weavers produced silk sarees for royalty and nobility. The silk used was sourced from Karnataka, giving the sarees their distinctive name.
A symbol of tradition
Today, Kanjivaram silk sarees are an integral part of Indian tradition and culture. Their brightly colored and ornate gold threadwork has become a symbol of celebratory occasions and festivals. Brides especially prefer Kanjivaram silk sarees for their wedding attire.
An artisanal masterpiece
Each Kanjivaram silk saree is a piece of art, handcrafted in a few days or weeks by skilled weavers. The making of a saree involves dyeing the silk threads, designing the saree, and carefully weaving the threads on a loom. The end result is a dazzling saree that displays a perfect blend of colors, patterns, and textures.
A timeless heirloom
Owning a Kanjivaram silk saree is like having a precious heirloom that can be passed down through generations. When properly cared for, Kanjeevaram silk sarees maintain their beauty and lasting power for decades. As fashion changes, the classic beauty of the Kanjivaram silk saree remains intact. For these reasons, Kanjivaram silk sarees remain highly coveted and a symbol of status.
How to Identify a Pure Kanjivaram Silk Saree?
High-Quality Silk Thread
Authentic Kanjivaram silk sarees are woven from the finest mulberry silk threads. When held up to the light, the silk threads should appear uniform and shiny, without any dirt or uneven spots. Silk fabric should feel soft, smooth, and lightweight. Poor-quality silk or synthetic threads will not drape as beautifully.
Intricate Weave
Kanjivaram silk is famous for its intricate weave with compact zari or gold-coated silver threads. Examine the saree closely to identify the distinctive Kanjivaram weave – small squares or checks in the border and pallu, each square containing a “temple” motif. The motifs are woven, not printed or embroidered. The zari thread used is also a hallmark of authentic Kanjivaram silk.
Vibrant Colors
Traditional Kanjivaram silk sarees feature vibrant colors, including bright shades of red, green, yellow, and blue. The colors appear rich and saturated. The underlying colors will look dull, uneven, or bleed into each other. Some of the most prized Kanjivaram silks incorporate contrasting color combinations with zari woven, showcasing the skill of the weaver.
Finishing Touches
Authentic Kanjivaram silk sarees have neatly finished edges without any loose or hanging threads. The pallu or the loose end is often decorated with a contrasting border. The saree may also have a matching blouse piece made of the same high-quality silk. These finishing touches demonstrate the care and craftsmanship that goes into producing a genuine Kanjivaram silk saree.
By paying attention to detail, you can identify the hallmarks of an authentic Kanjivaram silk saree. From the quality of the silk and the vibrancy of the colors to the intricacy of the weave and the finishing touches, a real Kanjivaram silk saree is a work of art. Cherish and preserve this timeless heirloom, a symbol of the rich textile heritage of South India.
Examining the Weave: What Makes Kanjivaram Silk Sarees Unique
Kanjivaram silk sarees are prized for their extraordinary weave, featuring intricate patterns, and bright colors. Several features distinguish the weave and confirm the authenticity of the saree.
Thread Material
Genuine Kanjivaram silk sarees use only the finest mulberry silk threads, which produce a smooth, lustrous fabric. The silk threads should feel soft and smooth, not thick or rough. Inferior silk or synthetic threads will not achieve the same rich, bright effect.
Pattern Complexity
Kanjivaram weave is famous for its highly complex patterns, which often include traditional South Indian motifs like temple towers, birds, and flowers. The patterns should look sharp and well-defined, not blurry or uneven. Simple or generic patterns are more indicative of low-quality imitations. An authentic Kanjivaram saree may have up to 1,200 threads per square inch, creating intricate, multi-colored patterns.
Zari Work
Real gold or silver zari thread is used to create shiny metallic accents on traditional Kanjivaram silk sarees. The zari work should have a bright, shiny luster and should remain tightly woven into the fabric. Faded, loose-attached, or obviously fake zari work indicates poor imitation.
Border Design
The border design of a traditional Kanjivaram silk saree is almost as elaborate as the central field, featuring a complementary pattern and color scheme. The border may be woven with zari to produce an attractive contrast. A simple, uneven, or mismatched border indicates a lower-quality copy.
By closely examining the fine details of the weave, especially the thread material, complexity of the pattern, zari work, and border design, you can confidently determine if you have an authentic Kanjivaram silk saree. Excellent weave has long been the hallmark of these iconic sarees from Kanchipuram.
Testing for Pure Silk: Tips to Ensure Your Saree Is Genuine
When purchasing an expensive Kanjivaram silk saree, it is important to verify that the fabric is made of pure silk and not a synthetic blend. There are some simple tests you can do to determine the purity of a silk saree.
Burn Test
One of the most effective methods is the burn test. Carefully take out some threads from the edge of the saree and burn them. Genuine silk threads will burn slowly, curl up, and take on a characteristic odor. The ashes will be soft and powdery. Synthetic threads like polyester will melt into a hard glob, and smell like plastic, and the ash will be hard and shiny.
Tensile Strength Test
Another useful check is to test the tensile strength or stretchability of the threads. Grab some threads and pull gently. Silk threads will be strong and resistant. Synthetic threads will break easily under tension. Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers, so the threads of a genuine Kanjivaram silk saree will withstand substantial pulling.
Microscopic Examination
When seen through a microscope, silk threads appear smooth, round, and even. Synthetic threads are uneven, rectangular, and thick. Check both the warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) threads for uniformity and fineness. Genuine silk will display a subtle sheen and delicacy.
Price
Considerably low prices for so-called “Kanjivaram silk sarees” are usually a red flag. Pure silk sarees, especially finely handmade sarees are expensive to produce due to the cost of high-quality silk and the complexity of the weaving process. While deals can be found, be wary of prices that seem too good to be true.
By doing some basic tests and considering price and quality, you can confidently determine whether the saree is made of precious pure Kanjivaram silk or an inferior blend. An authentic silk saree will provide you with a lifetime of beauty, so it is worth ensuring that it is the real thing.
How to Spot Fake or Synthetic Kanjivaram Sarees
When buying authentic Kanjivaram silk sarees, it is important to be aware of imitation fabrics and colors. Some unscrupulous sellers may attempt to pass off synthetic fabrics as pure silk to unsuspecting customers. By following these guidelines, you can determine whether the saree is made of genuine Kanjivaram silk or artificial silk.
Examine the Fabric
Genuine Kanjivaram silk has a distinctive texture that is smooth and soft as well as crisp. Run the fabric between your fingers – it should feel luxurious and fluid. In comparison, fake silk often feels rough, stiff, and scratchy. Kanjivaram silk also has a slight luster and drapes beautifully. Synthetic fabrics do not have the same delicate luster and tend to hang loosely.
Check the Border
Traditional Kanjivaram sarees have intricately patterned borders or pallas, which are woven with gold and silver threads. Closely inspect the border – the metallic threads should have a reflective, shiny quality. Fake borders often appear dull, lack intricate details and the metallic threads are not as shiny. The border is the hallmark of a genuine Kanjivaram saree, so if it looks hastily or cheaply made, the saree is probably not authentic.
Test the Dye
The rich, vibrant colors of Kanjivaram silk are achieved through natural dyes and multiple dipping processes. The color should not fade or bleed when rubbed vigorously between your fingers. Synthetic dyes have a higher risk of discoloration and bleeding. Kanjivaram silk also usually has small variations and imperfections in the colors which give it a handcrafted appeal. Uniform, extremely bright colors that do not vary throughout the saree suggest artificial dyes and a non-traditional manufacturing process.
By paying close attention to these attributes, you can determine whether a saree has the distinctive characteristics of genuine Kanjivaram silk. Educating yourself on how to identify a fake will ensure that you invest in an authentic heirloom-quality saree that will last for generations. An informed and selective customer is less likely to be misled by unscrupulous sellers selling counterfeit clothes. With some practice, identifying genuine Kanjivaram silk will become second nature.